Free Crochet Rainbow Pattern: Easy Wall Hanging

Add a splash of color to your home decor with this beautiful rainbow wall hanging! This free crochet rainbow pattern is an ideal yarn stash buster project. You can let your imagination go wild and use all sorts of different colors to use up your yarn left overs.

I love this rainbow crochet pattern because it’s a fun project that is quick and easy to make and is versitile too. Because it is crocheted as a cirle to start with you can easily turn it into a stylish rainbow blanket just by adding more rounds.

This pattern uses only basic stitches so it’s pretty easy to follow even for beginner crocheters.

Scroll down to view the full written pattern.

Free Crochet Rainbow Pattern: Before You Get Started

Pattern Notes

Skill level: begginer crochet skills and knowledge

Finished size: 

– height without fringe and loop: 13cm ( 5 inches)

– width: 27cm (10.5 inches)

Terminology: US terminology

Notes: only available in English

Materials and Equipment

Yarn: 

• this pattern will work nicely with 100% cotton, 100% acrylic or a blend of both
•  I recommend using Light Worsted #3 = DK yarn or Medium #4 = Worsted weight yarn

I used:

• Light Worsted #3 = DK yarn
• 100% cotton
• I used a selection of left over yarn, but if you don’t have any left over yarn available I recommend Rico Creative Ricorumi DK yarn which comes in handy 25g skeins. This skein size is just perfect for this project.
• colors of the rainbow: violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange and red
• yardage: 5g/11.5m/12.5yds to 22g/50m/54.5yds depending on color used

Equipment:

• crochet hook size: I used 3 mm hook = C/2 but refer to the instructions on your yarn label if using different yarn weight
• scissors
• tapestry needle
• stitch marker
• wooden bead (optional)

Abbreviations Used

This free pattern is written using basic crochet stitches in US terms. Download this free printable chart with UK terms.

– R: round

– MR: magic ring / magic circle

– ST: stitch

– DC: double crochet stitch

– CH: chain

– SL ST: slip stitch

– INV SL ST: invisible slip stitch = when you finish your last stitch in the round, pull up the yarn a bit and remove the hook; then insert the hook into the stitch you would like to slip stitch into BUT go from the back of your work to the front. Loop your yarn back around the hook and pull the loop tight around the hook. Then pull the hook through the stitch and twist the hook back into normal position. After you twist the hook, your yarn will be in front of it so just place it behind the hook.

– INC: increase = two stitches in the same stitch

– FO: fasten off

– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of the row/round

I need Help with this Pattern

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of crochet, then you may find these video tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern.

Need more help?

The fastest way to get help is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Dreamee Crochet Facebook group to ask for support with this free crochet rainbow pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow crochet makers or exchange tips and tricks.

How Can I Download this Crochet Rainbow Pattern?

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But you can download the ad-free and printable pdf version of this pattern for a small fee from my Etsy shop. Your generous contribution will help towards the cost of materials and running this website so I can continue to publish my free patterns online for everyone to enjoy.

Free Crochet Rainbow Pattern: Step by Step Instructions

You will crochet the rainbow in a round starting from the middle of the rainbow. You will join each round with an invisible slip stitch, which is a handy technique that helps you achieve a neat seamless joint.

You will then fold the completed circle in a half to create the rainbow shape and will crochet the open side close using a decorative edging stitch. 

Folding the rainbow in half will help to keep the shape of the crocheted rainbow firm when it’s hanging on the wall.

Special Stitches

INV SS: invisible slip stitch = when you finish your last stitch in the round, pull up the yarn a bit and remove the hook; then insert the hook into the stitch you would like to slip stitch into BUT go from the back of your work to the front. Loop your yarn back around the hook and pull the loop tight around the hook. Then pull the hook through the stitch and twist the hook back into it’s normal position. After you twist the hook, your yarn will be in front of it so just place it behind the hook.

Watch this video tutorial if you are unsure how to do the invisible slip stitch – watch R1 to R3. You can also learn how to change colors when joining the rounds towards the end of the video.

Please don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel to receive an update every time I publish a new video. 😉

Written Pattern

When to change colour:

R1-R2: violet

R3-R4: indigo

R5-R6: blue

R7-R8: green

R9-R10: yellow

R11-R12: orange

R13-R14: red

R1 (violet color):

• create a MR
• 1x SC into the MR and CH1 – this counts as your first DC stitch in this round
• 11x DC into the MR {12}
• close the round using INV SL ST:

– pull up the yarn a bit and remove the hook (Pic 1)

– insert the hook into top of 2nd DC from this round BUT go from the back of your work to the front (Pic 2)

– loop your yarn back around the hook and pull the loop tight around the hook (Pic 3)

– pull the hook through the stitch and twist the hook back into it’s normal position and place the yarn behind it (Pic 4) {12 incl SL ST}

R2 (violet color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the slip stitch you have just created as you will work your last two stitches into it – the slip stitch will be quite tight so make sure to loosen it up a bit
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into the same stitch again
• 2x DC into each stitch around
• change color to indigo when working on the last DC in this round
• work your last DC as follows:

– yarn over, insert hook into last stitch in the round, yarn over, pull through the stitch, yarn over, pull through two loops on the hook, yarn over with indigo color and pull it through remaining two loops on the hook

– cut off the purple yarn and tie a double knot with the two yarn tails on the back of your work; there is no need to weave the yarn tails in as they will be hidden inside the rainbow

• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {24 incl SL ST}

R3 (indigo color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next ST, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {36 incl SL ST}

R4 (indigo color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next ST, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 2 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• change color to blue when working on the last DC in this round
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {48 incl SL ST}

R5 (blue color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 2 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 3 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {60 incl SL ST}

R6 (blue color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 3 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 4 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• change color to green when working on the last DC in this round
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {72 incl SL ST}

R7 (green color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 4 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 5 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {84 incl SL ST}

R8 (green color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 5 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 6 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• change color to yellow when working on the last DC in this round
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {96 incl SL ST}

R9 (yellow color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 6 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 7 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {108 incl SL ST}

R10 (yellow color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 7 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 8 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• change color to orange when working on the last DC in this round
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {120 incl SL ST}

R11 (orange color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 8 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 9 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {132 incl SL ST}

R12 (orange color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 9 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 10 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• change color to red when working on the last DC in this round
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {144 incl SL ST}

R13 (red color): 

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 10 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 11 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {156 incl SL ST}

R14 (red color) – this is the last round of double crochet stitches:

• insert your stitch marker into the SL ST you have just created – you will work your last 2 STs into it
• 1x SC into the stitch you slip stitched into and CH1 – this will count as your first DC in this round
• 1x DC into next 11 STs, 2x DC into next ST
• (1x DC into next 12 STs, 2x DC into next ST) x 11 – you will not be changing colors while working on the last DC
• INV SL ST into top of 2nd DC from this round {168 incl SL ST}
• do not FO or cut the yarn off as you will continue to crochet from here, leave your hook in

You will now fold the rainbow in half making sure the wrong side of your crochet piece is on the inside. And then you will close the open side by crocheting a decorative edging around it.

Closing the Rainbow

R15: 

• insert your stitch marker into the last ST of R12 (not the SL ST but the last DC in that round)
• insert your hook into the stitch you slip stitched into
• then insert your hook into the stitch with the stitch marker in it so you will have two stitches on the hook (Pic 5)
• SL ST and CH1
• insert your hook in the next stitch and the corresponding stitch on the opposite half so you have two stitches on the hook again (Pic 6)
• SL ST and CH1
• continue to SL ST and CH1 in the next 39 STs
• SL ST in the next ST and CH 20 to create a loop (Pic 7) for hanging the rainbow on the wall – you can adjust the length of the loop by chaining more or less. Alternatively you can leave the chain out if you don’t want to hang your rainbow.
• insert your hook into the ST at the base of the loop and the corresponding stitch on the other half and SL ST
• continue to SL ST and CH1 in the next 40 STs (Pic 8)
• SL ST in the last ST and the corresponding ST and do not CH1
• FO, cut the yarn off and weave the yarn tail in
• you can decorate the loop at the top of the rainbow with a wooden bead if you wish

How to Make the Rainbow Fringe

• you will need 24 strands of yarn for each color – 6 strands for each round of color at each end of the rainbow
• you can chose the length of your fringe but allow extra for the loop and any trimming of the ends
• I cut my strands 20.5cm (8 inches) long and I ended up with a fringe approx 8.5cm (3.25 inches) long. I then trimmed it to make the ends straight to approx 6cm (2.25 inches). So be generous when measuring your yarn.
• the best way to measure the yarn is to wrap it around a piece of curdboard (Pic 9)
• grab 6 strands of the same color, fold them in half, insert a much larger hook into the stitch at the bottom of the round (go in from the back) and pull the folded yarn through. Pull up a large loop and draw the ends through the loop. Pull on each strand of yarn individually to tighten the loop. (Pic 10, 11, 12)
• repeat the same process for each round of color on each side of the rainbow
• although you will cut the yarn strands to exact length it’s absolutely normal you will end up with a fringe which is not perfectly straight. This is why you may need to trim it.

And that’s it! I hope you are happy with your rainbow and enjoyed making it! 🙂

Free Crochet Rainbow Pattern: Share Your Feedback with Us

I hope you enjoyed crocheting this rainbow wall hanging and found the free crochet rainbow pattern easy to follow! I welcome your feedback so please leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom of this page.

And as always, I love to see your finished crochet projects so please share a photo with us on social media using the hashtag #dreameecrochet.

Join our Dreamee Crochet Facebook group to share your makes, chat to fellow crocheters, make new crochet friends or to exchange tips and tricks. You can also share feedback and ask for support when working with my crochet patterns.

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Happy crocheting! 🙂